BF 7mm SuperMag disassembly

[LOCKHART]

Does anyone know how to take these pistols apart? I have searched the net, looking for schematics or instructions on disassembly and have found nothing. Any help?

[wheelgun7360]

Contact our Vice President Bruce Barrett. He can break one down. Allen

[hardtoseeovergut]

I have an owners manual somewhere with instructions I believe. I'll have to look

[260 Striker]

I found the BF owners manual on the EABCO website but it did not have any disassembly/reassembly instructions. Basically said to remove grips and spray cleaner into action then relube. I guess they don't want you to take the gun apart.

[LOCKHART]

Thanks for all replies, fellows. I had an old silhouette shooter tell me once not to ever take it apart, but he never told me why. Guess unless something breaks, I'll heed his advice.

[i26963]

Eben sent me instructions years ago, and I have added some of my own. I have taken a bunch of them apart.
I am on vacation, but when I return, I will post them on here
Melvin

[LOCKHART]

Thanks, Melvin!

[i26963]

Here are the instructions I promised

I would add a couple things to the instructions.
1. If you have the sight rib setup, you have to remove the sight(not the
whole rib)
2.Make sure you study how the trigger spring is oriented before removing.
3. After getting the block out, when removing the trigger, be aware that if
the transfer bar comes out, the firing pin can come out of it's hole.
4.When putting the block assembly back in, check to make sure the extractor
is still in place.
5. I ground a semi-circle in the flat blade screwdriver. Makes it easier to depress the mainspring strut.
6. It makes it easier if you place the barrel in a vise securely.
Here are Eben's instructions:
Disassembly and re-assembly of the BF is difficult primarily because it is
always under spring tension from the hammer spring. Here's what to watch out
for: Begin by driving out the pin at the rear of the trigger guard. Put
something halfway in the chamber (like a pencil) to keep the block from
snapping up after the trigger guard is disconnected. If the block does slip
up, what'll happen is that the strut or mainspring guiderod behind the
hammer will come out of its slot and jam so you can't press the block down.
If this happens use a small screw driver or punch to lift the end of the
strut back in line with its slot so you can push the block down.

Anyway, with the rear trigger guard pin out and the block down, you need to
be able to compress the mainspring so that you can lift the block out. We
use a modified pliers here, but I've done it before with the flat of a screw
driver. The harder process is holding it compressed when you want to put the
block back in.

Once you have the block out you can disassemble the trigger assembly. Come
to think of it that can be a little tricky too, with the trigger return
spring. But, take the trigger out first, then the hammer. Most of what we do
in our trigger tune up is to make sure the surfaces mate squarely and
shorten the hammer notch as much as possible. Usually a notch of .006-.008"
produces a good trigger. However, you need to watch this real close as it
doesn't take much to get it too short and have an un-reliable trigger.

It is usually not necessary to remove the trigger. Getting it back in , along with the transfer bar, is kind of tedious, but not too bad. Like a Eben said, a trigger job just involves stoning down the hammer notch.
With a little practice, it becomes easy. I can take one apart in about 5 minutes.
Hope this helps
Melvin

[LOCKHART]

Thank you for the instructions, Melvin.